Far away off the Eastern coast of Taiwan, lies the charming and isolated volcanic land of Green Island. Amongst the crystal clear waters where tourists flock to scuba dive and sit in one of only three seawater hot springs in the world, lies a repressive past. Political prisoners were shipped off here to the concentration camp of Green Island Prison to live a terrible life of thought and hard labour reform. The prison remains standing today and open to exploration. Read on to see what Teacake discovered.
A Quick Teacake Taiwan History Lesson
Taiwan was under Japanese colonial rule for 50 years until 1945 when China took back what they considered stolen. Under China’s control, Taiwan’s idea of a ‘happy-ever-after’ ending rapidly turned into a nightmare. The KMT (Chinese Nationalist Party), considering the Taiwanese to be too ‘Japanicised’ and ‘degraded’, began looting their commodities and resources. Taiwan’s economy went down the pan and in 1947, violent riots against the government broke out. Anyone suspected of going against the government was rounded up and executed (an estimated 18,000 to 28,000 people were killed), with the KMT stating ‘We would rather kill 99 innocent good people by mistake than miss a guilty one’.
Taiwan was under Martial Law from 1948 to 1987 with the KMT arresting all the ‘communist agents’ they could who they believed to be enemies of the state. Over 140,000 people were arrested with some 3000 to 4000 executed. Many served their sentences at Green Island Prison.
Green Island Prison
Two prisons were built on Green Island to accommodate the unfortunate who were arrested. The New Life Correction Centre (1951 – 1965) and Green Island Reform and Re-education Prison (1972 – 1987).
Anti-Communist Propaganda
Walking through the Oasis Villa grounds today, you can still see the anti-communist propaganda painted across the walls and chiselled into the cliffs. The different messages here include, ‘Taiwan Independence is Poison for Taiwan’ and ‘Communism is misery for all’.
Human Rights Graffiti
The Taiwanese have answered back and depicted through their graffiti that mind control and high-pressure domination were imposed on them by the government.
Devil’s gate
When prisoners arrived on the island, they had to walk along the coast past this rock shaped like an elephant’s trunk. It is nicknamed Devil’s Gate.
Swallows Cave
Further along the coast of the island, a path passes a pillbox which was used by the KMT as a solitary confinement cell dubbed the ‘water cell’. At the end you will reach a cave called Swallow’s Cave. This is where prisoners were forced to perform political plays.
The Lighter Side of Green Island
Overall, it’s depressing stuff but there are some wonderful sights to be seen on Green Island. Teacake recommends seeing the prison first and then enjoying the rest of your time here scooting around, diving, hiking, sitting in the hot springs, trying to spot deer and checking out the abandoned village of Youzihu.
Scooting Around
Bring your own scooter on the boat for 200 TWD one way or hire one here on the island (300 – 400 TWD per day). There is also the option to hire an electric bike, which I really would recommend: if you can help save the planet, do it! Riding around this 19 km island is a pleasure within itself. Enjoy the fresh air and views!
Diving and Rocky Beaches
If you love diving, Green Island has some amazing spots. The water is unbelievably clear with beautiful coral reefs and a variety of sea life. I swam with Blue Safari Diving Center and as a solo female traveller, managed to hop on a boat and join a group who had already booked! Try and do the same if you’re travelling solo. I got a whole morning of diving (2 dives) and my own personal instructor who spoke excellent English for 3100 TWD = £64 / $94.
Hiking
There are different trails you can take through the island. I’m going to be honest and say the routes and views are no way as good as Lanyu Island but if you fancy a stroll and some exercise, go for it. From near the lighthouse on the northwest side of the island, you can take your scooter up the mountains and easily do the Amei Hill Trail and back. Or, you can hike from the East side of the island up two different trails.
The Abandoned Village of Youzihu
I love abandoned places! This abandoned village was the first settlement on the island. The old stone houses remain standing and being right by the sea, it’s a serene and tranquil spot to do some snooping around.
How do I get to Green Island?
There’s two options. You can take a boat or you can fly.
Taking the boat
Teacake took a boat from Taitung’s Fukang Harbour. Boats run hourly but the schedule can easily change outside of Summer time because of weather conditions. Use your hostel or hotel to help you book a day in advance or turn up early in the morning yourself and book. Tickets cost 460 TWD one way, plus an extra 200 TWD if you take your scooter there with you. The journey takes about 50 minutes. Warning: the ferry ride sucks. Expect to vomit at any moment.
Taking a Flight
Daily Air Corporation has three daily flights between Taitung and Green Island costing 1028 TWD and taking around 15 minutes. You’ll need to book several weeks ahead in summer and flights can easily be cancelled in Winter. You can book your ticket here but I’m afraid the website is only in Chinese.
Where should I sleep on Green Island?
Accommodation is generally quite expensive and gets booked up fast! There are some cheap options: you can try and get a bed at the Big Blue Diving Center in Gongguan on the north of the island or at Da Shack Hostel on the East of the Island. If you’re a last minute planner like me and want the cheapest option with some awesome comfort, stay with Julius and Lily at Hostel Green520. Their fairytale themed accommodation is top notch and just across the street from the Diving Centre! They are incredibly friendly and fun and gave me all the English Tea I could ever dream of. Thank you guys!
Teacake’s Top Tips
Bring cash! There is an ATM on the island next to the Post Office but it does not accept International Cards. If you want to spot deer, a night drive is recommended. Please be careful of crabs on the road too. Their numbers have drastically gone down since tourists have started whizzing around: keep an eye out for them on the road and keep Green Island’s wildlife alive and kicking.
Interested in visiting other islands in Taiwan?
Check out my unforgettable Lanyu Island experience here!
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Oh Wow… thanks for introducing me to Green Island. I’ve never heard of it. Though there is the prison with it’s tragic past, it’s sad, but interesting history lesson, and then at least there are other beautiful places on the island to explore. I love the walkway into the sea!
I love the walkway so much too! It’s the first time I’ve seen something like that: a beautiful and charming idea!
We were in Taiwan in 2009 but never heard of Green Island. This is so fascinating and your pictures are so awesome. Thanks for telling us about this piece of history!
Wow, what a haunting place to visit. I loved all the history lesson, that was nice to incorporate. The grounds just look so sad, and you’ve captured them lovely through the camera lens.
I’m learning a lot of history about Taiwan here and really want to share it so others can appreciate and understand the culture more. Especially when visiting sites like this, an explanation can really help. I’m still trying to understand all the tricks at temples though ><
Sell it seems that it require s lot of willpower to visit including the hardship of getting there but the place looks steeped in history
What an amazing places. Such a dark history in a hauntingly beautiful location. Thank you for all of your detailed information about how to actually visit – makes all the difference with travel planning. I’d love to go myself!
It’s guaranteed that every place I visit, I’ll give you the low-down on how to do it yourself! :)
OMG, what a sad place! I don’t think I would have liked to visit it, although I have to say it sounds interesting.
I understand Anda. It’s a very difficult place to visit. No problem, I’ll go and just fill you in on the important bits ><
I have many reasons to thank you. First of all, I must admit I knew close to zero about Taiwan history and now I can say I know at least some basic facts. I am a former human rights lawyer, and find that visiting former prisons where political prisoners were kept is always a very strong, yet interesting experience. I did that in Nicaragua and in other countries and it taught me so much. Also, I think your pictures are amazing. You know, I had never thought of visiting Taiwan before, but… you got me interested!
Ah so interesting to hear about your past work Claudia! Great to hear that you have visited other places and learnt more about the history: I feel it’s really important. Thank you so much for your compliments on the photos! I love taking them >< I'll be writing lots more about Taiwan so please pop back.
Thanks for showing a dark part of the history, which up until now I was unaware of.
I knew Taiwan had islands but I didn’t know they looked as beautiful as this. I think it’s important though to visit the Green Island Prison and learn about the country’s fascinating and at some times upsetting history. Thanks for sharing!
Wow, it’s amazing how much you learn about a country when you visit a place like this. The rest of the island looks beautiful. Does it just rely on tourism now? That abandoned village looks really atmospheric too.
I believe this island relies on tourism immensely now. Funnily enough, there is a working prison here today! I passed it on my bike and apparently it houses Taiwan’s most notorious criminals: oh the irony!
I am a Taiwanese -American now living in the United States. My father was a political prisoner sent to Green Island during the White Terror Era (1950’s – 1980’s). It was not talked about and I only learned of this traumatic history when I overheard a conversation about my father after I came to the United States.
Thank you for your sensitive and poignant post and photos about Green Island and it’s dark chapter, especially startling against the present day tourist-oriented new identity of this remote but beautiful island. May its past not be forgotten and may its future always be bright, joyful and free.